Please see the bottom of the post for a day-by-day itinerary.
A friend recently asked, "so how long do you have to stand there and "appreciate" the vastness of the sight you are looking at". If you have to ask, you just don't understand, you don't understand the rush that you feel when you are looking at these wonders of nature. It's not about "having" to do something, you just can't help it. Regardless of who you are or what you like, when you see these places, you are guaranteed to be in awe. "Overwhelming" would be one word to describe this trip.
Never did I expect for Arizona and Utah to be so magnificent. This was a busy trip, from the Grand Canyon to Coyote Buttes, to the Antelope Canyons and Zion National Park, not to mention we skipped two other parks we were planning on visiting. It felt like we went from desert to snow. Despite being in the south, we saw all weather elements on this trip; the sun, rain and it even hailed at one point; we saw a mini sand storm and 30 centimetres of snow on the ground north of Zion. The weather changed from 30 degrees Celsius to -3. "Contrast" is another good word to describe this trip.
The Grand Canyon
We started with the Grand Canyon. Nothing will prepare you for when you see the Grand Canyon. No amount of pictures or research will help you understand the grandiosity of this place. The view stretches as far as the eye can see, the colours change with the sun and the serenity you feel as you look out into the distance is unparalleled. It's calming there. You can stare into the distance and dream forever. At that point, we really didn't know what was coming our way. We met a couple from Vancouver who were doing our trip but in the opposite direction who said "everything ahead will blow your mind". What? How is that possible? Are you seeing what we are seeing right here? "Just wait" they said and they weren't wrong.
Coyote Buttes South
So began my first hiking trip in the desert. Hiking on the sand dunes through incredible rock formations that resemble actual waves was something I had never done before. If you don't get lucky enough to win the lottery for Coyote Buttes North, don't worry, the south side of this park has very similar formations. You feel like you're on Mars and the only person on the planet. You do need to have a 4x4 vehicle to get through the roads that lead to the entrance at Paw Hole, so some fun off-roading is required.
Antelope Canyons
This trip came to be because we wanted to see the Wave (Coyote Buttes North), but it ended up being about the Antelope Canyons, at least for me. If you were to see one thing from this trip, see the canyons. I still cannot believe such things exist. You can only get in with a tour because a few years ago 14 people walked in and only 1 came out. The place is dangerous during flash floods and heavy rain. The shapes in the canyon formed by water and wind are mesmerising. There is an elegance about these formations. The colours change from the sunlight, you can see an array of blues and purples, oranges and yellows. This, was the most impressive sight I have seen to date. "Speechless" is another appropriate word for this trip.
Zion National Park
Zion was something out of this world. The 12 mile drive to the parking from the entrance was jaw dropping and the drive itself is worth paying the fee. To get to the parking, you go through twisty roads through canyons with cliffs on all sides. We were stunned at its beauty. Zion is home to one of most famous hikes - Angel's Landing; one of the most exciting and exhilarating hikes I've done. Not only is it all elevation, you hike on a narrow strip (with traffic moving both directions) and chains to help you climb. It felt elevating (no pun intended). Zion is full of little surprises with hikes through the water and along canyon cliffs, through narrow openings and some that require climbing. All trails come with stunning views, so "stunning" is another perfect descriptive word for this trip.
So what's left? As always, too much. On my list I still have Capitol Reef National Park, Bryce National Park and Arches National Park. Next time!
1,281 miles later, I feel like I've seen too much. The scenery still hasn't sunk in and I feel like I just woke up from a dream. So if we're using single words to describe this adventure, then how about "mind-blowing", "unexpected" or simply "magical".
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Tip 1: First and foremost, make sure to apply for the lottery for the Coyote Buttes North and Coyote Buttes South Parks (two different applications). These parks are the most difficult to get into. Your itinerary will depend on whether you get the permits and if you do, for what day. The South side is easier to get a permit for. For the North part, where the Wave is, it is unlikely that you will get in, but don't despair, there is so much to see even without the Wave. Also, the Coyote Buttes South has a similar area to the Wave, so you will get a gist of what the Wave is all about. The application process is described in further detail below.
Tip 2: We started planning out trip with Coyote Buttes parks because these are the parks that are most difficult to get to. They require permits to be applied for way in advance. As a result, you may need to shift this itinerary around when you know for which day you receive a permit.
Tip 3: Two best pieces of advice I got was to rent a 4x4 (explained below) and to drink a lot of water. Again, both are only applicable if you are going to the Coyote Buttes areas. All other parks are fine without a 4x4, but still drink water. You will need to drink a lot once you're in the dessert (even if you don't feel thirsty). Another main thing I would suggest is to have a GPS on you (it is helpful if there is one in the rental car) AND your phone. Many of the roads you'll be driving on do not have reception, so a car GPS is handy. However, I found using your phone is more precise.
Day 1: Las Vegas
- Fly into Vegas and have a day to explore. You can combine this national park trip with a Vegas Trip, but Vegas can be exhausting on its own, so leave some energy for what's ahead. Nonetheless, here's an itinerary for Vegas that you can use to combine the trips.
- A Cirque du Soleil show is a must. I would recommend KA and O.
Day 2: Las Vegas --> Hoover Dam --> Grand Canyon --> Page
- This day is dedicated to driving to a city of Page with a few stops along the way.
- Stop at the Hoover Dam but don't spend too much time here. I would recommend 30 minutes in this area maximum to have more time at the Grand Canyon. However, do stop to look at the Hoover Dam from the bottom and from the bridge.
- On the way from Hoover Dam to the Grand Canyon, stop at the town called Kingman. The town itself is nothing special, but there is a restaurant called El Palacio. This is the best Mexican food I have ever had. I can recommend #15 on the menu, which is a quesadilla wrapped into a burrito.
- Drive to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. There is a $30 entrance fee into the park and the pass is valid for a week. The park is always open, so there is no rush to get out. See the Vegas-Grand Canyon Itinerary.
- Finally, head to Page. We stayed at a Best Western Hotel. I would definitely recommend it. It seems to have been recently refurbished and breakfast is included. It is also very close to Coyote Buttes, Antelope Canyon and the Grand Bend (all discussed further).
Day 3: Coyote Buttes South
- This day is dedicated Coyote Buttes South. To get to this park, you first need to apply for a permit online that will be mailed to you. Make sure to do this in advance.
- Apply for both; Coyote Buttes North (the Wave) and Coyote Buttes South. You will most likely not win the lottery for North, so the South can be your back-up plan. Don't worry, it will not disappoint.
- To apply for the lottery, go here. This site has all the information you need. Keep in mind that there are limited permits given out each day. Check the dates, the price and the rules and read the full page carefully. When the time comes, apply for the permit for Coyote Buttes North (make sure to go online at the exact time indicated on the site) and similarly Coyote Buttes South (same note regarding time as the spots go quickly).
- For the South you will need to choose an entrance and exit point. It was recommended to choose the Paw Hole Trailhead entrance. Since the car will be parked at the entrance, it makes sense to choose the same exit point as well. Some people do hike from Paw Hole Access Point to Cottonwood Cove Access Point, but that is a long hike, so be prepared.
- We were told that Paw Hole has more rock formations whereas Cottonwood Cove is more of a flat overlook type of hiking.
- The two cars that we had that had no problems getting through those roads are Toyota 4Runner and a Jeep Cherokee. Both were 4x4.
- When you receive your permit in the mail, the package will have a map inside.
- On the way to the park, stop by a ranger's station along the House ROck Valley Road (BLM 1065) - watch for signs. You can ask the rangers for the best areas to hike, any advice, maps etc. They will scare you a bit with the road conditions, but this is just their way to make sure you don't do anything stupid. Although I must say the roads are not passable without a 4x4 (as I've already mentioned a few times).
- On the map, the road below state-line will be rough, but passable in a regular vehicle. However, once you turn from the House Rock Valley Road (BLM 1065) onto 1079 towards Paw Hole Access Point, that is where you will get deeper sand.
- The ranger said that anything past the Paw Hole Entrance Point should not even be attempted - that is everything that is marked in red on the map (not even in a 4x4).
- Take a look at this site for directions. I found it helpful.
- Once you get to the parking area, there will be a sign indicating the entrance. There are no trails in this park, but as you walk in, walk in a relatively straight line from the entrance from one formation to another. There will be a little nook where you'll see formations similar to the Wave. We spent quite some time here taking photos. This is a great place for lunch.
- We did not go much further than that. We hiked from 10am to 3pm. It took about an hour from our hotel to get to the entrance.
- On your way out, I recommend driving further south to highway 89 (only if road conditions allow) and back to Page. You'll be driving along Marble Canyon, which is an amazing sight in itself.
- There will be a Navajo Bridge along the road past a small town. The view from the bridge is incredible.
- If you still have energy, drive to the famous Horseshoe Bend. It will be on your left off of Route 89, close to Page. Entrance and parking are free and it's about 3/4 mile hike to the bend. We arrived there just before sunset, which is the perfect time to see this place. You'll see photographers lined up along the edge to take amazing photos. There are no barriers or fences, so be careful.
- Have dinner at Big John's Texas BBQ. Keep in mind it closes at 9pm. Sit on the patio. There is live music and incredible southern atmosphere. The food is fantastic. I'd recommend the sampler plate off the menu.
Day 4: Upper and Lower Antelope Canyons
- Get ready for your mind to get blown...again.
- When I was doing research, the number one question that comes up most often is which one to do; upper or lower? The answer is both! If you have the day dedicated to this, do both. Each tour takes about 1.5 hours. With the wait times and driving times, you will need half a day to do both.
- Upper Antelope Canyon
- You'll need to make a reservation for the upper canyon. This is the most popular canyon because of the famous sunbeams. The canyon has formed into such a shape that when the sun shines down on it, sunbeams shine inside the canyon, which provides unbelievable photos. However, even without the sun, this canyon is impressive as well. I would recommend to go even if it's overcast (as it happened to be on my trip)
- We booked a photographer 2 hour tour (Tour #1) for a few people on our group and a sightseer 1.5 hour tour (Tour #10) for the rest of us with Adventurous Antelope Canyon Photo Tours. I would highly recommend this company as the guides are very knowledgeable and help you with your pictures and camera settings. The best time to be in the upper canyon is around 11:30am or noon as the sunbeams shine directly into the canyon creating amazing views. As the tours are around 1.5 hours to 2 hours, we booked a 10:15 departure time, which is considered prime time for these tours. The photographer tour requires you to have a proper tripod and a proper camera. This tour is really for photographers. The sightseer tour is more diverse as the tour guides point out different formations and just show more of the canyon. However, the paths aren't blocked for you to take pictures as they are with a photographer tour. I would recommend the sightseer tour as you hear more about the history and see more formations. These tours do not allow you to bring in any bags.
- The photographer tour is $130 dollars and the sightseer tour is $60. The tour prices include the $8 dollar park fee. Prices do change so check before you go.
- From the research I've done, most people say that the upper is more beautiful (I disagree) and a lot more busy (I agree). However, in both canyons you do get rushed a bit when you're taking pictures to make room for next groups. So make sure you're familiar with camera settings as there isn't much time to figure it out on the spot. The guides will also recommend the camera settings based on what you're using.
- Here are a few other options I found for tours
- Lower Antelope Canyon
- Out of the two canyons, I would say the lower canyon is more impressive. While it does not have the famous sunbeams, it is much bigger and is more interesting to walk through; it has some tight spots you need to squeeze through and ladders to climb.
- You do not need to make a reservation ahead of time. However, it is getting more popular so you may need to pre-book in the future.
- We were able to get the tour on the spot. It is good to see it at any time of day. The tours take place 8:10am to 4:10pm every 20 minutes and cost $25 dollars per person. You do not have to pay the $8 dollar park fee again if you show the receipt from the upper canyon tour, otherwise the cost is $25+$8.
- I read that if you ask for a "photo pass" at the booth, you can stay at the canyon for up to 4 hours. However, we did not ask for this.
- To get to the lower canyon, just enter "lower antelope canyon" into google maps and it'll get you there, it is about 5 minute drive from the upper antelope canyon. There are two companies that sell the tours, both are owned by the same family (brother and sister) so it really doesn't matter where you buy your ticket. The actual canyon is a 5 minute walk from the ticket booth, so no transportation is required there, unlike the upper canyon.
- For dinner we had Chill N Grill. You can always ask the reception for places they recommend. I would actually recommend going back to Big John's Texas BBQ for round two.
- After dinner, do some star gazing. The sky is unbelievable and it is dark enough if you drive 5 minutes away from the town.
- I thought this was a very good overview to read before heading to the canyons.
Day 5: Page --> Toadstool Hoodos --> Zion National Park
- On the way to Zion, stop at Toadstool Hoodoos Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, there is a 3 mile hike (loop) that will not disappoint.
- Drive to Zion. We stayed at a cottage an hour away from Zion. If you are doing the same, I would recommend to buy groceries in Page as those parts are remote and closest shopping was about an hour away. There are other accommodation choices such as in Zion itself at the Zion Lodge or in the town of Springdale, which has a free shuttle going to the park.
- We stayed an hour away because it's was in between Bryce and Zion, so we thought it was a good location to be able to visit both parks.
- The park fee is $30 dollars and is valid for a week. Parking is free inside the park. However, there is private parking just outside of the park bounds (on the same side as the town of Springdale) and that parking lot is not free. The parking lots do fill up quickly, so this is a good option in case parking is tight in the park.
- After you pay the fee (if you're entering from east side of the park), it is another 12 miles to the visitor center. Stop at the lookout areas along the road once you're in the park
- In this park there are shuttle buses that take you to 9 stops. Each stop has different hikes starting from it. Pick up a map at the visitor center and get off at the stop where your hike begins. Keep in mind to go from the visitor centre (stop 1) to stop 9 takes about 40 minutes. The shuttles are very frequent.
- Do the Hidden Canyon trail on the first day. This is a wonderful trail to introduce you to this park and a good practice for Angel's Landing.
Day 6: Zion National Park
- Our original plan was to see Capitol Reef National Park on this day. However, Bryce Canyon and Capitol Reef are further north. There was still snow on the ground and fairly cold. It was also raining on this day, so we decided to do another hike in Zion. I would recommend Bryce and Capitol Reef for late April/early May to avoid the cold.
- Watchman trail - a simple trail (with elevation) will lead you to some epic views at the top. If it is raining, make sure to have proper rain gear.
- This is a rather short trail, so you can spend the day checking out the stores or Zion Lodge area at stop #5
- Unfortunately it started raining heavily on the trail, and we were soaked and had to go back to the cottage.
Day 7: Zion National Park
- Angel's Landing hike. This is one of the most famous hikes in the park. It is rated "strenuous". The way up is all elevation with 21 switchbacks. It is worth to go to the top as the view is magnificent. It is one of the most exciting and adventurous hikes I've done. You'll have to use chains to balance yourself and pull yourself up in the last part of the hike.
- The hike is just over 5 miles and depending on how often you stop for pictures and rest, can take about 4-5 hours.
- I recommend to do this trail as early as possible. There is so much traffic on this hike and the last part of the hike (especially) is very narrow. As a result, it takes longer to hike later in the day because you have to wait for people to pass.
- Wear layers on this hike because it does get windy at the top. Bring gloves as they do help you to use the metal chains especially on the way down.
- After the hike, take a free shuttle bus from the private parking area (outside of Zion's bounds) to the town of Springdale. Get off at stop #7 and walk back through the town. It is a very cute town with restaurants, galleries and shops. Have dinner at Oscar's Cafe. You will not regret it.
- Make sure to stop by David J West Gallery after dinner. He is an amazing photographer and even takes groups out to Zion for photography sessions.
Day 8: Valley of Fire State Park
- The original plan was to see Bryce Canyon National Park and head back to Vegas for our flight. However, as previously mentioned, it was still snowing in Bryce, so we decided to drive south to Valley of Fire State Park.
- The cost is $10 and to even just drive the White Domes Road road is worth it. The terrain really does look like fire flames.
- See this map for the different hikes available in this park. The White Domes Park is a really nice one for your last day on this trip.
- The Valley of Fire is about 1.5 hours away from Vegas, so keep it in mind when planning for your flight.
- We had some extra time and went to see the seven magic mountains art exhibit just outside of Vegas. It is an art installation that will be there for 2 years.
- Perhaps you can squeeze in some shopping if you're up for it before heading to the airport.
Other Parks
- Capitol Reef National Park - drive from capitol reef from Bryce is breathtaking
- Bryce National Park
- Arches National Park
Packing List (Mid-March trip):
- Short sleeve tops for hiking
- Merino wool shirts
- Sweater
- Wind-proof / water-proof shell
- Warm hat and gloves. Gloves will help you at Angel's Landing
- Merino wool socks
- Hiking shoes are a must including proper socks
- Hiking pants/athletic pants
- Shorts - for the desert hike at Coyote Buttes
- Sunglasses, hat and sunscreen
- Waterbottle
- Moisturiser - the skin does get dry
- Camera and a Tripod
Budget (For One Person) - Canadian Dollars unless otherwise noted
Keep in mind cars, gas and accommodations can be split if you are going with a group.Parks fees are per car, not per person, so can be split if going with a group as well.
If you rent cottages and not hotels you can cook your own meals.
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Plane ticket from Toronto
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$ 515.00
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Rental Car with insurance for a week* (can be
split)
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$ 1,000.00
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Gas for the week (can be split)
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$ 250.00
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Accommodations
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$ 350.00
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Excursions (Parks, Tours)
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$ 200.00
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Restaurants
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$ 200.00
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Groceries
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$ 100.00
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*Arizona requires you to pay insurance regardless of whether your credit card covers insurance. It's state law