Oahu and Kauai - May 2017


Please see the bottom of the post for a day-by-day itinerary.

I'm back baby! I can't believe I'm back. That's what was going through my head as the plane was landing. Unbelievable amount of excitement flowed through me as I stepped out of the airport. I knew what to expect this time around - the ocean, the food, the people, the views, surfing, the hikes, the atmosphere - the list goes on. I've missed you Hawaii! 5 years I told myself, I'll be back in 5 years - that's what I said after my honeymoon in Maui. I made it to 3.5 years and I couldn't take it anymore, I had to go back.

For the longest time I didn't want to write this post and the itinerary. I almost don't want to share Hawaii with anyone, but then I would also like for people to understand why I'm so crazy about it. It's like a little secret I don't want to tell anyone about, a gem in the middle of the ocean. Heaven on Earth. It's a true definition of paradise, especially as you sit on a remote beach with no one and nothing around you but a sandy beach as far as the eye can see and endless waves. Pretty picture, isn't it?

Oahu

This time around we were going to do some island hopping, so Oahu was the first to ease us into Hawaii life, time and pace. It's a busy island, housing the capital of the state, you would expect nothing less. It's home to the famous Waikiki beach that stretches for miles. Waikiki is a popular place to stay; with restaurants, world class shopping, entertainment and anything else your heart desires. Besides the hustle and bustle, Oahu has an incredible amount of nature, hikes, beautiful waterfalls and remote areas. The pictures I see daily on social media are stunning. If you want to see this island properly, a week would not be enough and unfortunately we only had two full days. After exploring Waikiki, driving to the north side of the island is an absolute must. The beaches and views are unmatched. However, one of the main reasons for coming to Oahu was to see Pearl Harbor. It's a sad story, a human story, a story of destruction and loss, but an event that united America. For me it was a deeply emotional experience; a place for reflection and inspiration; a place of history.












Kauai

Ah yes! As the plane took off and we were making our way to Kauai, I felt like the Hawaii I've been waiting for was about to unfold. Hawaii to me is about the nature, not the city. It's about getting disconnected from the rest of the world. It's like a breath of fresh air. There was surprisingly an incredible amount of activities available on this small island. It was shocking to see how quickly a week can fly by and how much of your itinerary you won't be able to complete. That's a good thing in my opinion; just another reason to keep coming back.

Kalalau Trail

There are three main sights you absolutely must see on Kauai. I have to begin with the world-famous 11-mile Kalalau Trail. The trail is home to some of the most breathtaking views in the world. Without an overnight permit you're allowed to do the first two miles of the hike, but majority of the views open up 20 minutes into the trail. The scenery is jaw-dropping and goes without saying - the hike is an absolute must. Hike the trail to the Hanakapiai beach, have a picnic, sit for a while and enjoy the view. Venture back to one of the best beaches in Kauai, Kee'ee beach, and spend the rest of the day tanning, snorkelling and thinking how you got so lucky.








Napali Coast

The second mandatory attraction on Kauai is the majestic Napali Coast. There are two ways to see it; by air or water. Both ways will leave you with unforgettable experiences. Having done the helicopter tour before on Maui, we decided to try out the water. The beauty and size of the Napali coast will astound. Be prepared for boat tour, get ready to snorkel, see hundreds of dolphins and sea turtles, get ready to ride 10-foot waves and see the bluest blues. The views make you feel like you're in a movie, on a deserted island, maybe in Jurassic Park, maybe in Lost, but you feel as if you're in a dream.







Waimea Canyon

Finally, the Waimea Canyon, or as it's also known, the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. The Canyon was formed by the erosion from the Waimea River coming from Mount Wai'ale'ale, the wettest place on Earth. It is recommended to see the canyon early in the day as the clouds roll in by afternoon. This area is a dream for hikers. There are several lookout areas along the Waymea Canyon drive with different vantage points onto the canyon. 






So Much More

You're not done that easily, you've only scratched the surface. There are over 40 miles of hiking trails on Kauai, many views to see and sights to discover. There is always the option (a necessity really) to spend a few days on different beaches doing absolutely nothing, to explore different towns around the island, immerse yourself in culture, try different food and of course it wouldn't  be a trip to Hawaii without a surfing lesson.




















Once again the dreaded last day arrived and I found myself missing this place before even having left. For the second time I found myself wondering how I can move here. There is something about Hawaii that makes you appreciate life, nature and the culture of these beautiful people. The ocean is the hardest to let go. There are a few places in the world that make you feel like you're on another planet. Not only that but being on these islands makes you feel like you're disconnected from the rest of the world and you just don't want to get connected to it again. So thank you Hawaii, one more time, for a lifetime of memories and experiences, for having filled me with inspiration and drive, excitement and dreams. So, 5 years again? I don't know why I bother putting a timeline on it, but I know I'll be back.

Mahalo, until we meet again.

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This is an itinerary for two islands, Oahu and Kauai.

Oahu is an interesting island. It's half city, half nature. From the pictures I've seen throughout my research there is an amazing amount of hiking, lookout points and remote areas. The south is more city/Miami vibe with shops, restaurants and ocean-view bars. Up on the north side of the island, that is where you will find nature. We had 2.5 days on this island and got to see a bit of the remote part, but mostly our time was spent in the south.

Tip 1: If you plan on seeing the island, I would recommend, renting a car. However, parking does get pricey. In the building where we stayed the parking cost was $30 USD for 24 hours - budget that in (see the budget at the end of this itinerary). However, having flexibility of a car is definitely worth it as you can venture out to other sides of the island. We booked the car through Costco and chose to go with Alamo. The car rental places are all a bus (specific rental car bus) ride away from the terminal.

 Tip 2: I highly recommend the following books: Oahu Revealed and The Ultimate Kauai Guidebook. There is one book for each of the islands and this is the only book/guide you'll need. It's accurate with regards to places to see, directions as well as restaurant recommendations.

Day 1: Oahu

  • This day is for you to get acquainted with Waikiki, world famous part of Oahu.
  • Have breakfast at Heavenly Island Lifestyle, a cute breakfast place with locally owned ingredients. However, it is on the pricier side.
  • Enjoy Waikiki beach. Spend the day relaxing and swimming.
  • When  you get sick of the beach, explore Waikiki, do some souvenir shopping.
  • Go to Steak Shack for lunch. A takeout place by the water with great food. This is a great bang-for-buck type of a place. This part of the beach is also amazing, less busy, more remote and calm. I would definitely recommend coming here for a swim after lunch.
  • Go to Tiki's Grill and Bar for happy hour. It is right across from the beach. A great way to people watch, take in your surroundings and try to get your brain to believe that you're in Hawaii. We liked it so much we came here for dinner as well. The Poke Bowl was amazing.
  • After happy hour, take another dip at the beach.
  • Go to Sansei Sushi for dinner.
Tip 3: There are many restaurants in Waikiki. I recommend doing just a food search on google maps and looking at reviews, or something more specific on yelp and four square as well as looking into the guidebook. You'll be covered with those sources.

Day 2

  • Pearl Harbor - you can find all the information you need here.
  • I recommend the Arizona sunk ship tour. There are 1500 tickets that are given out free each day at 7am, so I recommend getting there just before 7 am to line up. The tour is very well organised with a historical movie explaining USA's entry into WWII, followed by a short boat ride to the memorial. When you get back from the memorial you can spend as much time as you want at the main entrance, exploring other ships and exhibits.
  • Explore the North Shore - known for one of the best surfs in the world.
  • Turtle Beach and Mokuleia Beach are also on the way. Sunset Beach is a famous surfing spot as well.
  • We spent a few hours at the Waimea Bay Beach Park. It was refreshing to get away from the hustle of Waikiki.
  • Have lunch just a short distance away north of Waimea Bay Beach Park at a place that houses many food trucks (close to Sharks Cove).
  • On the way back, visit Manoa Falls and Waterfalls at Ko'olau Mountain Range. Unfortunately, we didn't have enough time to do the trail to the waterfalls, so maybe it is a good idea to do this trail another day. Unfortunately we were leaving the following day and didn't get a chance.
  • Stop at Leonard's Bakery on the way back from the falls. A bakery that is known on all the islands. If you carry a box around with Leonard's Bakery logo, it will definitely start a lot of conversations. The pastries are like donuts with different custard fillings. They are big, so don't make the mistake of over-ordering.
  • Take a break and get ready for dinner.
  • There is all kinds of entertainment along the main strip. There is even a shooting range.
Tip 4: You can definitely spend a week on this island and not get bored. There are many hikes and waterfalls around the island.

Other restaurants:

we didn't get a chance to try these but they sound terrific from my research
  • Musubi Cafe
  • Miyako Japanese Restaurant (expensive)
  • Hawai'i Sushi
  • LuLu's
  • Uncle's fish market and grille
  • Helena's Hawaiian Food
  • Morimoto
  • Duke's Canoe Club
  • Cafe Kaila

Other things to do on Oahu

again, unfortunately we did not get a chance to see these spots. 2.5 days really isn't enough time to see everything.
  • The Koolau Summit above Waimanalo
  • Halona cove - east sitde of island
  • Makapu’u Beach - east side of island
  • Lanikai Beach - east side of the island. Many of the social media photos are taken from this beach

Day 3: Oahu/Kauai

  • We had half a day left in Oahu as we were flying out to Kauai in early evening. This half a day was left for whatever you didn't get a chance to do on the other two days. Keep in mind that if you go swimming, showers on the beach are not full showers, but just there to rinse off.
  • You can explore the hotels along the beach, walk around the town, get lunch and just relax until your flight.
  • Have a drink at the Mai Tai Bar - a drink with a view. Food is expensive and there aren't many choices, but the Cobb salad was delicious and the view is unbelievable.
  • The airport by car without traffic is about 20-30 minutes. The check-in for inter-island flight was very quick.
  • When you land in Kauai, go to the Barefoot Bar for dinner. it is a beautiful restaurant with an awesome patio (if it's light out to see the view). If not, there are also seats closer in the back with a view of a small waterfall inside the restaurant and there is usually live music. Get the Hula pie (it's large enough to share with four people and you won't find it in many other places), tacos are incredible as well.
Tip 5: I would recommend stopping at Walmart or Costco (Costco closes earlier, but both Costco and Walmart are close to the airport) on the way to the accommodations and doing light grocery shopping. Water is a must. Keep in mind that on Kauai, there is one main road. As a result, it can take a long time to get from one end of the island to the other even if distances aren't that great. Traffic does become a concern.

 Tip 6: Before writing anything further, someone once recommended staying a few days on each side of the island:

  • North - more lush and green but with more rain (especially in winter) than any other side (the rain does not last long - at least in May)
  • East - sunny side but is, as a result, more busy than the north
  • South - very popular as it is close to the airport and as a result, more busy than other sides. It is also cheaper to stay in the south.
  • West - very remote

After having been to the island, I would definitely recommend the north side or if you absolutely cannot stay in the north, then the east side. I do note that the more north you go, the more expensive the accommodations get. There is a reason for that. Despite the fact that it'll take you the longest to get to anywhere from the north side, it is worth it. The greenery and the nature that surrounds you there is magical. We stayed in Alii Kai resorts with an ocean view (highly recommend booking an ocean view. It is not a beach front, but the view will not disappoint. You can also book directly on their website).

The resort will leave your keys with the car rental company. Everything is very seamless and easy regardless of what time you're checking in.

Day 4: Kauai

  • Wake up early (as early as you can) - which won't be a problem by the way since you will still be jet lagged 4 days in. It's just how it works in Hawaii, you go to bed at 9 pm and wake up at 6 am. You must do this hike - Kalalau trail. The trail takes you along the beautiful Napali Coast with views that will blow your socks off. The full hike is 11 miles long and requires you to have a permit, if you go past mile marker 2, and camping gear to camp out. I read that permits get booked a year in advance and they go quickly. Instead, do the first 2 miles and take the trail all the way to Hanakapiai beach. Take sandwiches with you, hang out on the beach and have lunch. However, if you do not want to do the full 2 miles, the view opens up 20 minutes into the trail.
  • I do recommend going to the beach because of the view. The beach has naturally formed islands (I'm describing this as I saw it in May - it probably looks completely different at other times of the year). It is sandy in the summer and mostly rocky in the winter. The signs will warn you to be careful about swimming at the beach as there are rip currents and waves can be large. If you're not confident in your swimming ability, better stay on the beach. It is a fairly remote area. While there are many people who do this hike, if something happens, it will take some time for someone to get there who can help you.
Tip 7: Bring a lot of sunscreen, water, hat, sunglasses, bug repellent and hiking shoes as some parts of the trail get muddy and slippery. Another reason why going on this hike early is recommended is that parking is tight. There are a few parking spots, one right at the start of the trail and one a bit before (3 minute walk from the start of the trail). Don't give up if you can't find a parking spot right away, people come and go all the time and a spot is bound to open up. Some people park along the road. In some cases it's allowed, but some park in places where there are signs that say "no parking". We were told by one local that a ticket can be $500, and another local that said it's $30 dollars. We didn't want to check who was right, but keep it in mind. It would be a great way for the state to make money.
  • After exploring the Hanakapiai beach and relaxing, there is a trail to a waterfalls. The trail goes along the river and in some cases you'll have to walk in the river. Water shoes are recommended. We did not end up doing this hike to the waterfall, but the responses of the people we met along the way were great! The hike to the beach and back is approximately 3-4 hours (depends on how long you spend at the beach). Add another 2-3 hours if you're doing the hike to the waterfalls.
  • Instead of the waterfall hike, we hiked back to Ke'ee beach and spent the rest of the afternoon. It's a great beach for snorkelling. Tunnels beach is also great for snorkelling.
Tip 8: bring your own snorkelling equipment. It just makes it easier for you to keep it in your car and have it handy at any time you want, instead of looking for equipment rental places. Also, most of the condos you rent (if you are renting a condo), will have beach umbrellas available for your use. This is another item i suggest throwing into the trunk to have with you at all times.
  • After a good hike and the afternoon at the beach, head back to the hotel, change, relax, get ready for dinner. There is a Ching Young Village in the north part of the island with many interesting shops and restaurants to check out. There are three large parking lots, so parking is not a problem. Some places do close at 8 pm or 8:30 pm, so make sure to check ahead and plan.

Other Restaurants from my research:

we weren't able to try these
Tip 9: Hawaii is very casual (maybe with the exception of Oahu/Waikiki), so you do not have to dress up too much for restaurants.

Day 5

  • This day is for a boat tour to Napali Coast. Napali Coast can be seen only via helicopter or a boat tour. Since we did a helicopter tour on Maui, and we hadn't done a boat tour, I decided to go with the boat tour. The boat tour includes breakfast, lunch and a snorkelling stop along the way to Napali. I recommend Captain Andy's boat tour that leaves from Port Allen - despite the fact that it took 1 hour from the north side to get to it, the service and tour was amazing. We heard the history of the island, saw hundreds of dolphins along the way, snorkelled and had delicious lunch.
Tip 10: You can also book a tour from the north side, but I read really good reviews for Captain Andy's and we decided to make the drive.
  • This trip will take half a day. Even with sea sickness medication, you do feel heavy at the end of the trip. Don't plan too much after this. It's better to relax.
  • I saw many pictures of a glass sand beach. The pictures look incredible, but the actual beach itself is underwhelming. Unless you have spare time I would not recommend it.
  • Driving across Kauai, you are bound to hit the tree tunnel. It is a tunnel of Eucalypus trees and it's a scenic drive. You will drive through it to get to different places, so keep an eye out for it.
  • stop at a lookout area at Wailua Falls and Opaekaa falls. Take a look at the guidebook to see how to get closer to the falls. We couldn't find the way down, maybe you'll be luckier.
Tip 11: HUGE TIP - take sea sickness medication regardless of how well you take sea sickness. The medication is sold at the check-in counter and it's $6 for a pack. I don't get sick easily, but it saved my life that day. A few people on the boat weren't as lucky. The ocean does get rough closer to the coast and the waves are 10 foot drops in some areas (in May). Also, bring a waterproof camera because you do get sprayed heavily.

Day 6

  • Spend the morning surfing with Hawaiian Surfing Adventures. I picked this place because it was in the north side so no long distance driving was required. Also, it's better to surf as earlier as possible because the waves do die down closer to the afternoon. In addition this place offers small group lessons of 4 people and rash guards are provided. Pono was a great teacher, enthusiastic and encouraging. Hanalei Bay is one of the best places on the island to take surfing lessons (in the summer. In winter, it's a popular surfing spot for experts). Hanalei is a huge beach with an amazing backdrop of huge waterfalls. The lessons take place in different locations depending on the surf. In addition, you can rent a surf board on your own for the day for $15 dollars a day, after you learn some basic technique.
  • You should spend a day here as well, just a beach day. One side of it is busy with surfers and boats, but it is so big that if you go further along the beach you can find empty areas.
  • Hanalei Pier is the best place in the north to see the sunset. So try to see it every night.
  • for lunch, we went back to the hotel, you will need a nap after surfing. Or you can order takeout from Hanalei Gourmet.
  • During our lesson there was a professional photographer taking pictures of us surfing. The photos are available to you on a USB for $80 USD.
  • Queen’s Bath: When calm, Queen’s Bath looks like a sheltered natural pool. However, conditions can and do change quickly and more than a few lives have been claimed at this site. It’s again important to be aware of conditions, which are typically better in the summer months. Feel free to hike down and take a look, just beware of whether or not it’s a good idea to go for a swim.
  • We continued to the Secret Beach – also known as Kauapea Beach. It's difficult to find, but if you do you will have a huge beach mostly all to yourself. Maybe that's why it feels like a secret. Stay on Kuhio Highway past Kilauea. Look for a secret beach road (very easy to miss, it's a an uphill turn off of the main road) that'll take you to a dead end where you can park. There will be a short hike down to the beach. It's also apparently a great place to see the sunset, but we did not stay for that long so I cannot say whether that is so. A local told us that the waves at the secret beach are twice as high as other places because of where the beach is located. So be careful swimming, or maybe just enjoy the view.
  • As always, on each day, before dinner we tried to catch the sunset at Hanalei Bay Pier and then had dinner at one of the restaurants listed above.

Day 7

  • Plan to take a break today. You will need a day to lounge around on the beach and do nothing or explore a town.
  • Visit Kapaa town on the east side of the island which has a number of restaurants and tourist shops. You can also go to the Kapa'a beach park or Wailua Beach. You can do some shopping along the coast. Two places that stood out are a store called Del Sol with clothes that change colour in the sun and a jewelry place called Kela's Colour Changing Jewelry.
  • We ended up going to Poipu Beach Park on the south side of the island (also apparently great for sunsets) - I wasn't a fan of this beach as it was very crowded and narrow. Instead, go to Anini beach, one of the safest to swim or any beach in the north. In the north, they feel more secluded and are definitely less busy.
  • Once again, finish your day with a sunset at Hanalei Pier and dinner.

Day 8

  • Explore the west - Waimea Canyon. Have warm clothes, as it can get cold and be prepared for rain. Come here as early as possible because by the afternoon clouds roll in and you will not be able to see the beautiful canyon, also known as the Grand Canyon of the Pacific. Take Waimea Canyon drive up and can take Kokee road on the way back.
  • There are several lookout spots along the drive on the Waimea Canyon drive. It is best to consult the guidebook when making this drive.
    • Pu’u Hinahina Lookout - mile marker 13
    • At around the 18th mile marker you’ll find the Kalalau Lookout.
    • Driving further up Koke'e Road will take you to the end of the road to another very impressive lookout.
  • There are many hiking options in the area. Check out this site for information. One of the most famous trails is the Pihea trail. The trail overlooks a beautiful and remote north shore valley. The trail provides fantastic views of Kalalau Valley
  • The original plan was to do the 6.2-mile round-trip Awaawapuhi Trail that takes approximately 3 hours and offers jaw-dropping views. I came across this description of the trail so take a look for your reference. Unfortunately it started raining heavily as we started the trail and we had to turn around.
  • Also on the west side of the island is Hawaii’s biggest beach, Polihale State Park. The beach is in a remote location and accessed via a long dirt road. Budget at least 3 hours for this excursion, and bring food and water. Check out the "barking" sands at Barking Sands Beach. It's also a great place to see the sunset. Once again, this whole side of the island was covered in clouds and rain. We decided to salvage the day and head back to the sunnier side of the island. I would defer to the guidebook for further attractions on this side of the island as we got unlucky with weather and weren't able to explore.
  • Spouting Horn Park in Poipu has a large blowhole. It really is massive. It is worth to see if you're already in the area (which you will be, driving back to the north part of the island), but I would not come here specifically for this.
  • We also stopped at a Coffee Plantation on the way back where you can taste different types of coffee from different islands.

Day 9

  • Beach day. Check out Haena beach, a beautiful beach with beach front properties that will get you thinking about how you can move here. (If you can, I would definitely recommend a beach front property for your stay.) After, we went to Hanalei Bay (further away from the pier - Hanalei Pavilion Beach Park), which was a bit more calm. We stayed here for the rest of the day.
  • Have lunch and mai tai's at Tahiti Nui
  • Go home, relax, get dressed for dinner and go to the pier for one last sunset.
  • On the last night, have dinner at the Postcards Cafe - a very cute place I absolutely fell in love with. We wanted to do a light dinner so we did a taster plate, which I would highly recommend.

Day 10

  • It's nice to have a late check out (especially if your flight is in the evening). If you do, you can go to the beach one last time. We did not have a late checkout so we packed up and drove to the Lihue area. We explored the shops and walked along the Kalapaki beach, watched a few volleyball games going on beside the Barefoot Bar. We liked the Barefoot Bar so much we went there again and sat on the patio, trying to figure out how we can permanently move here.

Other Activities:

we weren't able to fit into the schedule

East

  • Sleeping Giant hike - a steady climb, but worth the view at the top, also known as the Nounou East Trail (looks like a giant resting on his back); the trail ends at a picnic shelter on his chest. 

South

  • At the end of Shipwrecks (Keoneloa) Beach, in front of the Grand Hyatt Kauai, is the start of the Mahaulepu Heritage Trail, an easy walk along and dunes. It’s 1.5 miles to the overlook of Mahaulepu (Gillin’s) Beach - best looking unspoiled beach in Kauai.
  • There are several botanical gardens on the island, the National Tropical Botanical Garden and Allerton and McBryde Botanical Garden. Some scenes from Jurassic Park were filmed here.

West

  • Hanapepe (town in the west) is best visited on a Friday night when they have their art night.
  • Salt Pond Beach Park - apparently one of the few beaches in the west with washrooms

North

  • Tunnels Beach - great for snorkelling.
  • Kalapaki Beach, Ninini Beach -- for a good snorkeling/swimming beach off the beaten track.
  • The St. Regis hotel in Princeville offers one of the best views in Hawaii and is a great place to view the sunset.
  • Na Aina Kai Botanical Gardens - call ahead to make sure they are open and to book a tour.
  • Shops at Kong Kung in Kilauea. Lunch at Kilauea Fish Market.
  • Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, a 200-acre habitat for Hawaii's ocean birds.
  • Okolehao Trail in Hanalei - approximately 1,200 foot elevation to a ridge overlooking Hanalei Bay.

Other Useful Websites:

Packing List:

  • Hiking shoes - a must for hikers
  • Backpack to take with you on hikes with food and water
  • Hiking attire
  • Cap, sunscreen, sunglasses
  • Bikinis/swimming stuff
  • Beach bag and beach towels
  • your own snorkelling gear
  • Light sweater for the evenings
  • A few casual sundresses for dinners. Shorts are also fine.
  • Flats flats flats - I would not recommend heels unless you're staying at a fancy hotel (and even then)
  • Water-shoes if you plan to do any hikes to the waterfalls

Budget:

Note: everything is in Canadian dollars (per person). Keep in mind, accommodations, cars and gas can be split. Accommodations were booked for four people. You can also save on food by buying groceries. Inter-Island Flights were booked through Hawaiian Airlines.

Main Flight: Beginning Destination --> Oahu
Inter-Island Flight: Oahu --> Kauai
Inter-Island Flight: Kauai --> Oahu

Main Flight: Oahu --> Final Destination

From my research it was cheaper to book flights separately, but you could look for the following combination:

Flight 1: Starting Destination --> Oahu
Inter-Island Flight 2: Oahu --> Kauai
Flight 3: Kauai --> Final Destination