Please see the bottom of the post for a day-by-day itinerary.
Positano
When I travel, it’s usually a little hectic - too much to see, too little time. So when we got to Positano, especially after Rome, I had the urge to run somewhere, to catch a train or be on time to a gallery reservation. I constantly had to remind myself that this is a place where people come to relax and I mean truly relax. Positano felt like the essence of dolce vita where you spend your days on the beach, shopping and exploring. I find myself at a loss of words as I try to describe Positano; from the relaxing way of life to the magnificent views, this place surpassed my expectations.
The mornings in Positano began with a breakfast on the patio of the hotel with incredible ocean views or at a bakery with amazing pastries and cappuccinos. After breakfast, everyone slowly transports themselves to the beach to catch the sun before it sets behind the mountain. As I swam in the Mediterranean (still warm enough in October) and enjoyed the view, I thought to myself that it could not get better than this. It did.
It took time to explore this little town, because I just had to take a picture from every angle and every two meters. I loved the vibrant colours of the flowers on the buildings and the blue ocean, visible from every location. Especially, I loved the relaxed atmosphere of this place where you are obligated to be absolutely nowhere and do absolutely nothing.
One of the most scenic hikes is located close to this town. And true to its name, the Path of the Gods, was really the Path of the Gods. If Gods were to take a path, it would be this one. Breathtaking!
When the sun begins to set, this charming town transforms. As the mountain lights up and people dress up for dinner (they really dress up for dinner), you begin to get excited with the variety of restaurants ready to satisfy your taste buds and you just can’t help but feel giddy that it all begins again tomorrow.
Pompeii
I didn't know what to expect from Pompeii. I had heard of a town destroyed by a volcano long ago, which was preserved from the layers of ash that fell upon it; but I didn’t know much more beyond that. So being in Positano, which is about 2 hours away from Pomepii, I decided to book a tour. I didn't realise the effect that walking through the ruins would have on me.The tour started on a light note with the guide describing how and when Pompeii was found. She took us through the streets and the businesses and entertainment districts where thousands of people used to live, work and relax. I walked through a house; a house that belonged to someone like you and I; a house that was possibly filled with love and laughter, with a family; a house that could have seen many dinner gatherings and relaxing evenings; a house that was pride and joy of someone who lived long ago. I was walking through someone’s life. It was a surreal experience seeing paintings on the walls over two thousand years old, in original form, to imagine the lavish dinner parties, the rich fountains at the entrances, to walk on the grounds that carriages drove on, with still visible tire marks, to see the remains of the stores run by merchants. It was shocking to discover an amphitheatre with top-notch acoustics. As I walked through the once busy streets, I saw signs of a civilisation long gone. I saw pizza ovens and drinking fountains, baths, brothels and graffiti on the walls.
The tour took a slightly darker turn as we came to a room with two displays in the centre. There were two bodies that were found beneath the ashes. I saw a rich man and a slave in the same room, made equal as the irruption took both of their lives, not caring about their difference in status.
The tour finished at a square with a senate on one side, once operating factories on another and monuments dedicated to Gods all around. There were two storeys of shops around the perimeter of the square once bustling with customers and sailors. Trying to imagine the square in all its glory, I saw Vesuvius in the background as an ominous reminder of what had happened. As I stood in the middle of the square, once centre of life, I began to realise, what a sad story it is, of a civilisation wiped out by the force of nature and I remembered a plaque I saw while hiking in western Canada. It is paraphrased here but the message fit perfectly.
Sit a while, relax, enjoy the beauty around you and live life to its fullest for we are here but a little while.
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Day 1
- Have breakfast at the hotel. Florida Residence is the hotel I stayed at. I would absolutely recommend this hotel to anyone. Great ocean views, lovely breakfast and very helpful staff. If you would like to have breakfast outside the hotel, try La Zagara.
- Go to the beach right after breakfast as the sun sets behind mountains in early afternoon.
- Explore the town and all its shops
- Relax at the hotel, and get ready for dinner.
- Dinner - see a list of restaurants I visited at the bottom of this itinerary.
- Walk along the beach and explore this town at night.
Day 2
- Path of the Gods - this is a must-do hike. Takes about 3-4 hours depending on the pace.
- How to get there: There are two ways, that I know of. One is to take a bus (SITA) to Amalfi (the town next to Positano) and a second bus from Amalfi to Bomerano. The path will begin there. The second way is to take the same bus (SITA) to Priano and take the stairs, to the beginning of the path, labeled “Path of the Gods” or “Sentiero Degli Dei”. If you cannot find the stairs, ask anyone in the area.
Tip 2: SITA bus tickets are sold in any tobacco shops. You can buy 24 hour tickets and use them for 24 hours after you validate the ticket on the bus. You can also buy shorter duration tickets.
Tip 3: Take plenty of water and snacks with you.
- Closer to the end of the path, there is a little shop, The Kiosk Path of the Gods, where you can cool down and have a drink or food if you’re hungry.
- When you reach Nocelle, you can either take a bus to Positano, or descend another long flight of stairs and walk further towards Positano.
- Take a break after the hike, especially if you choose the stairs option.
- Dinner - see a list of restaurants I visited at the bottom of this itinerary.
- There is a club on the beach of Positano. If you are up for it, go to Music on the Rocks for dancing or simply relax and find a restaurant with live music.
Day 3
- Take a tour of Pompeii.
- This will be a whole day trip as you need to take the SITA bus to Sorrento and then a train from Sorrento to Pompeii.
- On the way back, if you get a chance, stop and explore Sorrento. The locals will tell you that any restaurant in Sorrento has amazing food.
Day 4
- Unfortunately, we had to leave this magical place, but if you have an extra day, take a tour to the island of Capri. I have heard it is magnificent.
- Or, you can visit another neighbouring city, such as Amalfi and Sorrento.
List of Restaurants
- Saraceno d’Ora
- Mediterraneo
- Ristorante il Capitano
- Cafe Positano (for dessert)
- There are many beautiful restaurants closer to the beach as well.
Useful Links
- Getting to Positano from Rome - it will take majority of the day
- General Information
- Path of the Gods